Saturday, December 18, 2021

The hills of Iowa and bridges of Madison County

In early September, I travelled to Des Moines, Iowa, to crew and pace for my sister Stephanie as she embarked on her first 100 mile run. Me and all three of my siblings started running at various points in our lives, either purely for exercise or as an effective way to keep anxiety at bay. Sarah, Steph, and I all eventually started running long distances. This gave us occasional opportunities throughout the years to train and race together. Steph and I trained for our first marathon in 2002 while we were both living in Oregon. We run at a similar pace, which has helped facilitate many joint training runs, as well as quite a few races. 

10 km race with all my siblings 

Sarah took her running to a new level when she started doing Ironman triathlons. They are pretty inspiring races to be around, so I've traveled for three of the five she's done to be her cheerleader and to get some quality time with my niece, Madeline. Spectators are not allowed to provide aid or pace an Ironman triathlete, so being Sarah's cheering section was our lone role. 

Steph has remained focused mostly on running but has increasingly been upping her distance from mere marathons (42 km) to 100 km races. Much to my delight, she has also embraced trail running, which is all my joints allow. We've started doing "destination" races every few years, such as in Death Valley and Joshua Tree. When she offhandedly asked last spring if anyone wanted to crew for her 100 mile race, I jumped at the opportunity. I have no intention of running that far, but helping someone else achieve that goal felt like a pretty worthy endeavor.

I arrived in Des Moines on a Friday afternoon, just in time to pack up Steph's drop bags and deliver them to the race staff. That evening, we talked through logistics of gear, food, and vehicles, and made a rough plan of when her spouse David and I would be jumping in to pace her. Early in our planning for the event, I told Steph that I would pace her for at least 20 of the 37 miles that she was allowed to have someone with her. That gave me a good training target and allowed her to enlist others to pace the rest of the distance. As my training progressed and race day approached, I knew I could cover more distance, if needed, so that became our plan. 

Death Valley trail marathon - 2014

At 3:30 am the next morning, we woke up, made some caffeinated drinks, and packed our gear into the car. The start of the Booneville Backroads Ultra was about 30 minutes away and start time was 5 am. Arriving early to a race is always a good idea because you never know how long the line will be at the port-a-loo.

Just after 5 am, 37 intrepid runners, aged 26 to 62, left the starting line at Badger Creek State Recreation Area. The time limit for the course was 32 hours; Steph was hoping to finish in 26 hours (!). After a fitful night of sleep, thanks to Archie the cat, I decided to head back to Steph and David's house and try to get a couple hours of sleep before finding Steph along the course. 

Last minute gear adjustments

They're off!

Crew were not allowed to drive the exact running route for safety reasons, but there were areas where the "running course" and the "driving course" overlapped. Fortunately for me, these locations were often at or near several of the covered bridges dotted throughout Madison County. We live next to the Felton Covered Bridge (I can see it from where I am writing this post), which is a pretty spectacular landmark. In fact, it is the tallest covered bridge in the country. Still, seeing a variety of covered bridges of pop culture fame seemed like a fun activity for the day even though the bar of comparison was pretty high. There are six intact bridges scattered around Madison County, the highest concentration in Iowa and the western Mississippi River Valley.

Felton Covered Bridge

The first bridge, Imes, was near mile 22 on the race route. I assumed I had missed my sister at this stop, so I took a quick look at the bridge and carried on to Holliwell Bridge at mile 36. It was a perfect day for exploring (and running) - a light breeze, temperatures in the low 70s, slightly overcast skies - so I found a nice rock to sit on and cheered runners on as they came through the bridge.

Imes Bridge - oldest of the bridges; built in 1870

Holliwell Bridge - the longest bridge at 122 feet

Inside of Holliwell Bridge - one of two without a fire suppression system

After waiting for what I thought would be the correct amount of time, my sister had not come through yet. I started getting worried that I had missed her, so I high-tailed it to mile 42 where there was a crewed aid station that would almost certainly be tracking runners as they came in. I knew I would be able to check-in there to see if she was ahead of me. I had the crew bag for mile 50, so I wanted to be sure I was not behind her. As it turns out, I almost certainly left Holliwell Bridge minutes before she came through the bridge. Bummer! 

Leaving the aid station at mile 42

As the running course made its way through Winterset and then to the north, I went a bit further afield to see Cedar Bridge and Roseman Bridge. Cedar Bridge recently reopened after it was nearly completely destroyed by fire. It is also the only bridge still open to vehicle traffic. Roseman Bridge is one of the three bridges that is in its original location. 
 
Cedar Bridge

Roseman Bridge

Back in Winterset, I visited the town park, where the Cutler-Donahue Bridge now sits. It is one of two bridges with a peaked roof and is the shortest in length of all the bridges. I also stopped at a gas station in Winterset to put coffee into my insulated mug. I hardly ever drink coffee, but I thought the caffeine might come in handy later in the night/early morning given my lack of sleep the night before and the little sleep I was expecting in my future. 

Cutler-Donahue Bridge

Lightning strike??

I caught back up with my sister near the Hogback Bridge, the last of the covered bridges. The sun had decided to make an appearance, making things a bit warmer, but Steph was looking great and maintaining a good pace. 

Hogback Bridge

The next aid station was at mile 50, the halfway mark, and our first planned rendezvous site. I arrived at the aid station about 40 minutes before my sister came through, so I cheered on the other runners while I waited. If you ever need a dose of inspiration, go volunteer at an aid station of an ultra and be amazed at the runners that are still upright, moving forward, and often times smiling. Steph came into the aid station at mile 50 right on schedule and ate some much needed calories while I refilled her water reservoir. Runners consume calories out on the route, as well, but the aid stations provide an opportunity for items that are too bulky to carry in your pack like bananas, pb&j sandwiches, and coke.  

Leaving the halfway point

The plan was for me to advance to the 63 mile aid station (also the start/finish line) where I would join Steph on the route as her pacer. After looking at the route, though, I decided to meet her at mile 57 because I was concerned it would be getting dark before she got to mile 63 and I had both of her headlamps. She crested the hill at mile 57 just as the sun was setting, so I was happy I made the stop. There had been some gnarly hills between miles 50 and 57, so Steph's pace had slowed a bit, but she was still in good shape. 


I met up with David at mile 63 where I changed into my running gear, prepped my hydration vest and reflective gear, and waited for Steph to arrive. Mile 63 was the first place the 100 milers could pick up their pacer. I was slated to pace the first 10 miles, David the next 11 miles (so he could go home and let the dogs out), and then I would take another 10 or possibly 16, depending on Steph's needs. Steph came into mile 63 around 9 pm, 16 hours after she had left the start. We headed back out onto the course after getting her some additional layers, lights, and fuel. 

When I mentioned this trip to my co-workers, the first thing many of them said was, "Iowa. Must be flat." I knew better than to expect flat, but the hills of Iowa are no joke! They are not particularly tall or steep, but they are numerous and rolling, so the elevation gain was adding up. Steph wasn't too thrilled with hills by this point in the race, so my job was to "inspire" her to make it to the top of each one. The darkness certainly helped! The night turned quite chilly as fog rolled in, also making navigation a bit more challenging (the course was unmarked). My other job was to try to keep Steph moving forward at a pace that would get her back to the finish line in 26 hours or in 32 hours at the latest. This is the most difficult part of being a pacer, in my opinion. My legs were fresh at that point so setting a pace was no problem for me, but my sister had been running for 16 hours, was likely running a calorie deficit, and was certainly sleep deprived. If you push too hard, you can break a person physically and mentally, but you have to push somewhat because the mental demons telling you to quit are real, especially now that it was cold and dark. We pushed on through the darkness and were buoyed when we saw the lights of the church and aid station 73 appeared in the darkness. 

I drove straight to the aid station at mile 84 so I could try to get a few hours of sleep before heading back onto the course. I was still quite awake when I arrived, but did manage to get some sleep before my alarm woke me at 4:00 am. Based on our pace the previous 10 miles, I expected Steph and David to be arriving near 5 am. I changed into my running clothes again and walked around a bit to loosen my muscles. It was still quite chilly outside, so I hunkered down in the car until I saw a pair of headlamps approaching the aid station. I was also drinking the coffee I had procured in Winterset to give myself a bit of a jumpstart. 

When Steph and David arrived at the aid station, Steph did not look good. She was cold, under fueled because her GI track was in knots, sleep deprived, and probably dehydrated. She was coaxed into a chair by one of the aid station volunteers and quickly covered with a flannel blanket. She wasn't sure if she could keep going, so the volunteers and I were offering anything that might help her go back out: broth, cooked breakfast, coffee, warm coke, a nap. As she was falling asleep in the chair, she looked at me and said, "my mind is broken." At that point I stopped pushing. During a training run in July in MN, we had talked about this run and the mental stamina that would be needed to make it to the end. I asked her how she would know if she needed to stop before the finish line and she told me she would stop when her mind was broken. Steph doesn't remember that conversation well, but it was something that stuck with me. When she said those words at mile 84, I knew that was the end of the run. 

We drove back to Des Moines and got her into bed. David fell asleep shorty thereafter in the recliner; he hadn't gotten any sleep during the night. Remember that coffee? Yep, sleeping was NOT in my future. My body was twitching because of the caffeine so I headed out for a run to get it out of my system. It took 15 miles for that to happen! 

Steph was disappointed to be logging a DNF (did not finish) for the event, but I reminded her that she had just run 84 MILES (!), 21 miles farther than she had ever run and 80 miles farther than most anyone else on the planet wants to run. I was happy I could be around for a couple days after the run to help her process her experience and realize that she had accomplished something amazing, even if it was not what she had envisioned. As I get older, I realize more and more that we have to fail to learn and be better. This is not something our culture focuses on, particularly with social media feeds that are filled with "perfect" stories of success. We just have to be willing to learn from our failures rather than let them hinder our progress. I am so proud of my sister and have no doubt that I will be crewing/pacing her again sometime soon.

Saturday, August 21, 2021

Birthday sloths!

 First things first. I am not one tiny bit embarrassed that I celebrated my 43rd birthday in the same way Pete's cousin's daughter celebrated her 7th birthday. Why? Because, SLOTHS! 

A bit north of San Francisco in a residential Sonoma County neighborhood, you will find a house filled with a wide assortment of animals that have either been confiscated, surrendered, or orphaned by a closing facility. None of the animals can be returned to the wild, so they are used for educational programs to teach people about the animals and their habitats in the hopes of inspiring conservation. 

Enter Covid and the subsequent school closings, which resulted in a near total loss of revenue for this small but mighty organization. Like many people over the last 18 months, they were forced to pivot and opened a small part of their facility to visitors. After a glowing review for Safari Encounters from Pete's cousin, Pete decided to take care of all of his family member's summer birthdays in one fell swoop. 

Our visit included time with five different animals from South America: the two-toed sloth, matamata turtle, three-banded armadillo, caiman lizard, and dwarf caiman. We also got time with the brown skunk, Ernie, an extra treat. 

The two sloths were the stars of the show, as expected. One of the sloths begrudgingly took the blueberry treats from us and then promptly went back to napping, while the other sloth continuously climbed around the room trying to figure out how to get in on the blueberry action. Their movement is so interesting to watch, especially as they navigate obstacles with their characteristic curved claws. Interesting sloth fact: they go to the bathroom about once per week and lose ONE THIRD of their body weight in the process! 

feeding blueberries to Willow (Photo by Brandi)

super fascinating toes/claws

Chewy REALLY wanted some blueberries


sloth fur starts at the stomach and grows toward the
back, the opposite of most other mammals. It helps
them shed water while they are hanging out in the trees.

The three-banded armadillo tried to steal the show from the sloths. We got to hold him while he was waking up and then turned him loose in the habitat. He explored every nook and cranny to find any scraps of food the sloths had dropped. Armadillos mainly eat termites in the wild, so they have long claws on their front feet for digging. Instead of their claws being out in front of their feet when they walk (like a dog), they walk on the tips of their claws. I thought it looked like he was prancing around in high heels. 


Roomba was waking up in very jerky movements -
I was worried about dropping him! (Photo by Mike)

Armadillos do not have very good sight, so the shield on
their head protects them when they run into things.

Our extra for the day was a brown skunk. It is the same species as the black and white variety, but it was bred to have a brown coat so people would not be tempted to try to make pets out of the skunks in their backyards. Even deskunked, Ernie still had the tell-tale smell of a mustelid (weasel family). He was very soft and sweet, though. 

(Photo by Pete)

We had a great time learning about the animals and the organization. If you live near Sonoma and want to support an organization that is doing great things, check out Safari Encounters. You will not regret it!    

Sunday, July 4, 2021

"Green" tourism?

 If you ignore the news for your mental sanity like I tend to do, you may not know that the western U.S. is in one of the worst droughts in modern history and may be on the precipice of what meteorologists can a mega drought. Over 82% of the west - including Montana, Idaho, Washington, Oregon, Nevada, Utah, New Mexico, Arizona, and California - is currently classified as being in either severe, extreme, or exceptional drought. Record low rainfall in 2020 and 2021, along with the hottest summer on record in 2020 (after a cool start, 2021 is now vying for the dubious title) has created dangerous conditions for wildfire as well as water shortages for fish, farms, rangelands, and communities. 


Along the central California coast where we live, our annual average rainfall total should be somewhere around 50 inches per year. Over the last two years combined, we have received 70% of that; 16 inches in 2020 and 17 inches in 2021. Between the drought and the CZU Complex Fire burning nearly 87,000 acres of our forests last summer, everything looks and feels a tad bit parched here. 

Glenwood Reserve
This is not a rare color for the hills of California in the summer,
but there is usually a couple months of green in the early spring; 
that green period lasted about two weeks this year.

Bonny Doon Ecological Reserve - fire
One of the many burned areas near our house

Enter "green tourism." In early June, I spent a few days in Oregon, prior to their record-breaking heatwave last week, and little did I know that seeing the color green would be one of the trip highlights. Pete was doing work on the Columbia River, so I met him at the end of his work trip and spent a few days in and around Astoria, Oregon. Astoria is in the northwestern corner of Oregon, bordered on the north by the Columbia River and the Pacific Ocean on the west. I spent a fair amount of time in the area when I lived in Oregon either for work or salmon fishing, so I had a bit of nostalgia as we explored.

Wreck of the Peter Iredale at Fort Stevens - I used to 
collect water samples just up the beach from this

green dune grasses against the gray of the beach

North Head lighthouse at Cape Disappointment

Astoria bridge across the Columbia River, connecting Oregon to Washington 

And glorious day, it rained! That would probably be a bummer for most people's vacation, and I admit that I was a bit sad when I saw the forecast, but it was so refreshing. We donned our raincoats and opened our umbrellas and spent much of a day walking through the neighborhoods of Astoria in the rain. With rain comes green. It is one of the things I miss most about Oregon. That might sound odd if you have never spent time in a temperate rain forest, but the vibrancy and shades of green are amazing. I also spent a lot of time in my formative years running on trails in Oregon forests, so they feel like home to me. I've lived in California for nearly four times the amount of time I lived in Oregon and have spent much more time in the redwood forests here, but they do not inspire the same feeling of "home" as a Pacific Northwest forest. 

lovely bog (and mosquito breeding factory)

greenery growing amongst the shallow roots of a sitka spruce

dense, green understory - something lacking in redwood forests

a light colored banana slug on a carpet of moss

The outlook for California does not look promising based on the latest climate models, so we may be traveling north more frequently in years to come to engage in this type of "green" tourism to feel rain and see green.  

Sunday, April 11, 2021

Signs of spring (in two states)

 Spring is my favorite time of the year. Even though our winter in central California is much, much milder than my childhood winters in Minnesota, there is still something invigorating about the lengthening days, the budding trees, the blooming wildflowers, and the busy-ness of our bees. Even though we had a very dry winter again this year and are officially back in "drought" status, the wildflowers are doing their best to put on a show. We are incredibly lucky to have a number of county and state parks nearby that have a range of habitats supporting different types of plants. Every run and hike feels a bit like a treasure hunt this time of year as blooms come and go. Here are a few from this weekend...

common star lily

sky lupine

checker mallow

suncup

lots of lupine along the trail

California poppy


Allen's hummingbird

our hedge rose going bonkers!

This year, we spent a few days in Minnesota at the end of March to hug my mom (!!!), so we got a taste of the very early spring there, too. The ice on the lake was days away from disappearing, migratory waterfowl made their way to the pond, the willows were just starting to develop catkins, and the maple trees across the road were tapped for sap. It had been a long time since I had been in MN at that time of year. The anticipation for warmer, longer days was almost palpable and was accompanied by a symphony of bird song. Male red-winged blackbirds belted out their love songs, sandhill cranes croaked their prehistoric voices as they flew overhead, and the trumpeter swans squawked as they flew north. 

sap dripping out of a maple tree

Maple sap being boiled down in the evaporator. It takes
about 30 gallons of sap to make one gallon of syrup.

last year's cattails around the pond

ice retreating from the shore a few days before ice off

Cole and Pete were reunited after nearly four years.
Cole remembered his "number 1" right away. 💕

Spring was nice, but hugging my mom was best!
Yay for vaccines!

While our travel opportunities remain limited, the re-greening and blooming of our backyard is a welcome change that makes things feel new again. Happy spring, everyone!  

Sunday, March 21, 2021

Finds at the fossil beach

 A friend sent me a text last weekend asking if I wanted to join her and her family at a beach near our house to look for fossils. It was a beautiful day, it had been two and a half weeks since my second vaccine shot, and I had not seen Max for over six months, so I was keen to join them. But at the same time I was thinking, fossils in Capitola?! In spite of being a marine ecologist, I spend very little time at the beach. When I was working on the coast, my job would either take me to rocky intertidal areas or kelp forests. The geology of Monterey Bay is such that most of the rocky intertidal areas are start at the northern and southern ends of the Bay, with a big crescent of beach in the middle. As a result, I have spent very little time in the "crescent" of the Monterey Bay shoreline. 

When I met up with Max and family, she told me that Capitola Beach was listed as one of the best places in coastal California to find fossils. I was surprised to learn this after living here for nearly 20 years. We threaded our way through the throngs of beach-goers on the esplanade (none of us had been around that many people in over a year - it was weird) and headed to the southeast along the cliffs. Fortunately there were very few people along the beach, so we set off to search for fossils. 

We didn't have to search very long or very hard before we came upon boulders covered in shells. The walls of the cliffs are sandstone, a soft, very erodible rock that had multiple horizontal layers of shells embedded in it, like layers of a cake. The fossils are all contained in the Purisima Formation, which preserved fossils from the Pliocene era between 2.5 and 5.5 million years ago.The cliffs are very unstable and as they erode, they provide a steady stream of rocks with fossils to the beach below. As we walked along the beach marveling at the gazillions of shells, we started finding bones. BIG bones. Pelvic girdles, vertebrae, ribs, appendages, all likely from a combination of whales, dolphins, seals, and fish. It was amazing! What a fun treat to find a new place to explore in our own backyard. 

bands of shells (the white stripes) in the sandstone cliffs

boulders fall off the cliff, bringing the fossils to eye level

pelvis

ribs?

clam

spine - looks kind of fishy? 

vertebrae, likely lumbar because of the long "wings"

two and a half foot long bone - rib? part of a skull?

lots of shells

beach cliffs hiding many treasures

If you get a chance to go explore, head to the beach at near low tide and enjoy imagining who was swimming in the ocean millions of years ago.