We welcomed in 2019 from Zacatitos in Baja California Sur, Mexico. Our dear friends Christian and Lindsay invited us to stay with them at their family's place on the beach again this year. We joined them the first time in 2012 and really enjoyed our time there. When they asked us in September if we wanted to come down again this year between Christmas and New Years, we jumped at the chance. The timing of the trip worked well for Pete, a currently furloughed federal employee. It was a bit more tricky for me since I had just started a new job and had no accrued vacation hours. I worked extra hours to make up for our vacation time and my new employer was really understanding about our already scheduled holiday.
We arrived in San José del Cabo in the early afternoon and were met at the airport by Lindsay and Arin. We then embarked on a scavenger hunt of sorts to find the tortillaria (where they make tortillas) and the carnitas (pan fried, slow-cooked pork) shop. We found the tortillaria but were coming up empty on the carnitas. Returning home without the carnitas may have caused a scene, so Arin asked some nice men for help. As it turned out, we were within blocks of the place and soon had two stacks of warm tortillas, two kilos of carnitas, and a giant piece of chicharrón (deep fried pig skin). We also grabbed two boxes of beer on our way home, which made our arrival at the house extra welcome.
We spent our first full day in Baja diving in the Cabo Pulmo marine reserve. We got up early, drove two hours to Cabo Pulmo, and immediately put on wetsuits and hopped in the boat. The marine reserve was established in 1995 to protect some of the special marine species that live there, particularly the hard corals, which are the northern-most corals in the Sea of Cortez. Enforcement of the reserve has been challenging, though, so the benefits of the reserve have been spotty. Our first dive was at a site called Los Morros (the hills), which was an aptly named area of reef that undulated underwater. We saw lots of fish, mainly small individuals, lots of coral, some eels, and a couple Cortez round stingrays.
When we surfaced from the dive, the wind had picked up and the sea was quite choppy. The water temperature was only 70oF, so I had gotten quite chilled during the dive with a 2 mm wetsuit and 2 mm shortie over the top. The wind at the surface was not helping me warm up, so I huddled on the bottom of the boat to get out of the wind. We had a short surface interval before hopping back in the water for our second dive on the ship wreck. The ship that sank wasn't very big and it was in many pieces. The draw for this site is the potential to see bull sharks. The site is relatively small, so we swam around it a number of times looking for cool critters and sharks. There were a few big fish at this site, which was nice to see. We didn't see any sharks, but there were lots of goat fish and conger eels - two of Pete's favorites - so all was well. The wind had picked up even more during our second dive, so we made a bee line for the beach and started the process of trying to warm up. Fortunately the sun came out at regular intervals to combat the wind that was still blowing.
We spent the rest of our time at the house in Zacatitos reading, playing games, swimming, snorkeling, walking on the beach or in the desert, and watching humpbacks swim and splash and morbula rays leap out of the water. We also ate delicious food, made almost exclusively by Christian, who would often retreat to the kitchen at 2 pm to make all of us dinner. We were also treated to some phenomenal sunsets and sunrises, and a beach encounter with the local residents.
our first sunset
our second sunrise
our last sunrise
beach treasure
the local burros celebrating new year's day on the beach!
ridiculously cute baby burro
they were quite friendly
in the end, they got a little too friendly when they started
licking my pants and eventually trying to eat my shirt
We left Baja fully relaxed and reveling in the time we had with good friends. We returned to cooler, wetter weather in California. While we welcome the rain, it could come in smaller doses. Last weekend the river jumped from 3.5 feet to 13.2 feet after four inches of rain, reminding us how quickly things change around here. We are expecting another round of storms this week so we've winterized the garage to be ready for any possible flooding this winter. Hopefully all will be for naught.
Pete is still furloughed, which is frustrating and maddening. He is so ready to go back to work! Not quite the start to the year we were hoping for, but hopefully things will get settled soon. Sigh.